Spring delectables
Spring-time in Vermont may have unpredictable weather, (April Showers bring, more rain?) the term "Mud Season" is very appropriate. However, gastronomically speaking, we have some amazing seasonal foods available to us this time of year, albeit for a small window of time, which of course makes them all the more coveted.
Two of my favorite items this time of year are ramps and soft-shell crabs. Sure you can go to a sushi restaurant any old time and get a roll that has tempura battered soft-shell crab in it, but they are using a frozen product and it doesn't compare to getting a whole fresh soft-shell...not even close. And anyone who compares a ramp to a scallion is downright daft.
Ramps, also known as spring onions, wild leeks or wild garlic, are found in patches on hillsides and near streams in shady, forested areas. They have a deep earthy aroma and flavor when they are cooked, like if you mixed a leek with a truffle. My favorite way to prepare them is to drizzle them with olive oil and a healthy sprinkle of salt and pepper and toss them on the grill for a couple of minutes until the flat green leaves have just wilted...heavenly. Eat them as is or you can mix them with mayo for a luscious topping for sandwiches, or you can pickle them (they make a great martini garnish). Whatever you do must be done quickly because they disappear fast, making me want them all the more.
Soft-shell crabs have the same tendency to show up and vanish long before I've had my fill of them. For the people who are unfamiliar with soft-shells crabs, they are crabs which have recently molted their old exoskeleton and are still soft. What does this mean? It means the whole thing is edible, shell and all. I like to give them a simple dredge in seasoned flour and pan-fry them in hot oil until they are golden, crispy, and cooked through. They have a marvelous flavor and incredible texture, both a crispy crunchy exterior and a briny softer interior. They are amazing on a sandwich roll (with some ramp aioli? yes, please!) or on a salad of baby greens.
Here is a recipe for my easy Soft-shell Crab Sandwiches:
4 live soft-shell crabs, cleaned*
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper
4 Tbl butter
4 kaiser rolls
2 Tbl. Ramp Aioli, (recipe below)
Lettuce, tomato, red onion (or whatever veggies you like)
1. Put flour in a shallow dish, season with salt and pepper.
2. Heat butter in large sauté pan until just beginning to turn golden.
3. Dredge crabs in seasoned flour until well coated, shake off any excess flour, add crabs to hot pan (top side down first) and cook 2 min. Turn over and sauté until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes more.
4. Toast kaiser rolls and spread with Ramp Aioli on each side of the bun. Add veggies and top with your crisp soft-shell crab. Serve immediately!
*You can have your fish monger clean the crabs for you or you can quite easily tackle the task at home.
To clean soft-shelled crabs:
Rinse live soft-shelled crabs under running cold water. With scissors cut off the heads about 1/4 inch behind the eyes and cut off the white gills. Peel back the aprons, cut them off, and rinse the crabs again.
Ramp Aioli:
4 large ramps, quickly grilled
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and Pepper
Combine all ingredients in a food processer and blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning to your liking.
Two of my favorite items this time of year are ramps and soft-shell crabs. Sure you can go to a sushi restaurant any old time and get a roll that has tempura battered soft-shell crab in it, but they are using a frozen product and it doesn't compare to getting a whole fresh soft-shell...not even close. And anyone who compares a ramp to a scallion is downright daft.
Ramps, also known as spring onions, wild leeks or wild garlic, are found in patches on hillsides and near streams in shady, forested areas. They have a deep earthy aroma and flavor when they are cooked, like if you mixed a leek with a truffle. My favorite way to prepare them is to drizzle them with olive oil and a healthy sprinkle of salt and pepper and toss them on the grill for a couple of minutes until the flat green leaves have just wilted...heavenly. Eat them as is or you can mix them with mayo for a luscious topping for sandwiches, or you can pickle them (they make a great martini garnish). Whatever you do must be done quickly because they disappear fast, making me want them all the more.
Soft-shell crabs have the same tendency to show up and vanish long before I've had my fill of them. For the people who are unfamiliar with soft-shells crabs, they are crabs which have recently molted their old exoskeleton and are still soft. What does this mean? It means the whole thing is edible, shell and all. I like to give them a simple dredge in seasoned flour and pan-fry them in hot oil until they are golden, crispy, and cooked through. They have a marvelous flavor and incredible texture, both a crispy crunchy exterior and a briny softer interior. They are amazing on a sandwich roll (with some ramp aioli? yes, please!) or on a salad of baby greens.
Here is a recipe for my easy Soft-shell Crab Sandwiches:
4 live soft-shell crabs, cleaned*
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper
4 Tbl butter
4 kaiser rolls
2 Tbl. Ramp Aioli, (recipe below)
Lettuce, tomato, red onion (or whatever veggies you like)
1. Put flour in a shallow dish, season with salt and pepper.
2. Heat butter in large sauté pan until just beginning to turn golden.
3. Dredge crabs in seasoned flour until well coated, shake off any excess flour, add crabs to hot pan (top side down first) and cook 2 min. Turn over and sauté until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes more.
4. Toast kaiser rolls and spread with Ramp Aioli on each side of the bun. Add veggies and top with your crisp soft-shell crab. Serve immediately!
*You can have your fish monger clean the crabs for you or you can quite easily tackle the task at home.
To clean soft-shelled crabs:
Rinse live soft-shelled crabs under running cold water. With scissors cut off the heads about 1/4 inch behind the eyes and cut off the white gills. Peel back the aprons, cut them off, and rinse the crabs again.
Ramp Aioli:
4 large ramps, quickly grilled
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and Pepper
Combine all ingredients in a food processer and blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning to your liking.
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